Do what you will while you’re able, find what it is that you seek.
Follow, follow the sun, and which way the wind blows, when this day is done. Breathe, breathe in the air. Set your intentions. Dream with care.
For me, surfing is as close a connection I can have with Mother Nature. To surf, you’re riding a pulse of energy from Mother Nature. And it’s strong. It’s real. It’s there. And you’re dancing with that. You’re connecting with that. You’re might be the only person in the history of the universe that connects with that particular pulse of energy.
When people connect to my work, it makes me feel great. A lot of that stuff is really deep, and when I play something and people feel what I feel, and use it in important situations in their lives, like at weddings or funerals, that’s so powerful. It means I can connect with them on an important level.
I played didgeridoo from a young age – on the vacuum cleaner, initially.
My dad was a really good surfer, and by the time I was 10, he was dragging me out on some good days at Bells. I’d reckon they were solid, 6-foot days, and he’d tell me to wait on the shoulder. I’d see him coming through the barrel, and he’d just scream at me to go. I’d drop in, and he’d give me a hoot from behind – I’ve always loved it.